Oct 29 2017

Snowberries in Autumn Scarf

A few weeks ago, I attended a dye workshop with Liz Moncrief at the Whatcom Weavers’ mini conference, Fibers and Beyond, in Lynden, WA. I haven’t dyed cellulose fibers or worked with fiber-reactive dyes before. This was a two-way split warp that I inverted on the loom, to give the middle stripe. I first tried weaving it with the same yarn in a third colour:

(Click to view larger).

But as you can see, it was too much gold, and it muddied up the colours. So I went searching through my stash and found a brighter gold that was thinner and let the warp shine through:

(Click to view larger).

It was just barely dry when I entered it into the Spokane Handweavers’ Guild Annual Sale. I regret to inform you that I did not take a photo of the finished piece, which sold the first day of the sale before I returned from Las Vegas.

This is a shame, as I was especially happy with the trim — I added in thin gold strands, twisted the fringe, and finished it with a Common Whipping in the gold thread.

Sep 29 2016

This awesome thing happened this week.


This awesome thing happened this week.

Feb 28 2016

Color Presentation

I presented “A Color Vocabulary” yesterday at the Cross Border Weavers in Colville yesterday.


The first half are the slides, the second half is the slides again, with my notes.

Click Here to View A Colour Vocabulary.

Dec 5 2015

Figure My Figure

I went to the Figure my Figure meeting for the Guild’s 2016 Yardage Challenge — how to figure out how much you need to weave for the pattern you’ve chosen.   These are my notes.

First, you’ve got to pick a pattern.  The upside to a pattern like this one is that it has many pieces — many pieces tends to mean that each piece is not super-wide, and that means that you can weave your cloth on a smaller (narrower) loom.  Most patterns have the yardage labeled for 45″ or 60″ cloth — and if your loom’s that wide, bully for you, but if it’s not . . . well . . .

ChooseAPatternNext up, take all the pieces out.   What you’re looking for is to find the largest one that is the widest across:

MeasureLargestPatternPieceFocusMeasure it at the widest point.   This, plus the selvage, plus shrinkage, is your minimum width.

TransferPatternPiecesToTracingPaperOur intrepid weaver’s guild president, Sarah Laudenbach, a long time seamstress, suggests tracing all your pattern pieces on to tracing paper, and using the tracing paper pattern for your garment, keeping the original for reuse.  If you use (or cut down your) tracing paper to the maximum width of your cloth on the loom (minus the selvage, minus shrinkage), you can’t go too wrong.

LayOutPatternPiecesRemember, you have to line up the pieces with the grain.  Check the arrows, and get everything going in the right direction.  When you get everything traced, and before you start cutting the tracing paper, measure the length of the tracing paper.  This, plus shrinkage, is the minimum length you need to weave for your pattern.  Weave more.

UseMeasuringTapeToGetStraightA trick for lining up the pattern with the cloth: measure from the grain line to the edge of the cloth in several places, so you know that you’re straight with the grain of the cloth.

LineUpPatternWithArrowsIf you are using cloth with an obvious pattern/stripe/grid, you’re going to need more cloth, because you’re going to use the little dart-arrows in the pattern to line up with the lines in the cloth.  You may need substantially more cloth to do this, if you have a long repeat.

DetailofDrawingClothPatternonPatternBefore you cut your cloth, it’s a good idea to trace the pattern of the cloth onto your pattern piece, to make sure the cloth pattern falls in the right place.

DrawItOnCompletelySarah suggests drawing it in on the whole thing.

I don’t know about you, but I’m still not feeling super-sure about this whole thing . . . weaving yardage, no problem — cutting my cloth . . . . eek.

Nov 4 2015

Silk Scarf


Can I tell you just how terribly delighted with how this scarf turned out?  It’s 60/2 silk, sett at 60 epi, handdyed lilac warp, creamy natural silk weft, with silk thread embroidery.

SilkScarfLogoDetailI’m particularly pleased with this addition.  I knew that one of my normal angryspinner.com tags would be entirely too heavy for this piece, and I was wracking my brain trying to figure out what to do — of course — more embroidery!  I think it’s pretty subtle.

SilkScarfFringeSetUpBut what I really want to talk about is this ^  — the work.  There’s a number of different ways folks get their fringe to line up.  I started with pinning the hems down with these beautiful, thin, glasshead pins.  I used a ruler to hold the fabric in tension and straight while I pinned into a cotton towel-covered foam block.

I decided how long to make the fringe, and placed a second ruler along there.

SilkScarfFringeLoopI started each knot off the pin.

SilkScarfFringeLassoLasso it over a pin, then place the pin.

SilkScarfFringeTightenPull gently to tighten.SilkScarfFringeKnotThe shaft of the pin puts the knot in just the right spot.

SilkScarfFringeDoneFinished pinning.  I then use a rotary cutter and a quilting square to cut the ends (not shown — I didn’t have quite enough hands to do the work and photograph it).

SilkScarfEnd2Finished fringe.








Aug 4 2015

Where I’ve Been Hiding

I know I haven’t been posting about what I’ve been weaving . . . I couldn’t. But I’ve been working deep in the background of this project — weaving things to help the teams make decisions on what to bring into production: Project Jacquard

Jul 30 2014

Peacock Baby Wrap Complete!

I wash, dry, and steam press my wraps before they go out. Before you send a piece of cloth this big through the washer to finish it, it’s best to baste it along the rails. I’ve determined that basting by hand with a high-contrast thread is the best way to do this:


Steam pressed, hand-hemmed, and ready to go:

On my in-house model:

In the woods:

In the sun:

The Peacock wrap meets its baby:

Mama and baby, all wrapped up and ready to go!

I’m so glad you liked it!

Jul 29 2014

Peacock Baby Wrap Cloth

After the loom is threaded, the threads must be brought through the reed in the beater. In this case, most of the threads are brought through in pairs, for 16epi, except the ones on the selvedges, which are, for one inch, sett at 24epi.


The ends are then bundled and tied on to the cloth beam, then tensioned to make sure that they all have an even tension, allowing for perfect weaving. Then, scrap yarn is used to spread the bundles back out to make nice cloth. Here, I’ve used a sage yarn in the weft.


I suspected it would be pretty, but the real weft, black, is spectacular.  (Click on individual photos to enlarge).


The first yard!

Jul 29 2014

Peacock Custom Baby Wrap Threading

Finally!  All the warp threads are wound, and placed in the raddle, which allows them to be spaced  on the warp beam for back-to-front threading and sleying.  Back-to-front is really the only way to thread this particular loom, because the Louet Spring allows you to remove the beast beam *and* the beater, and to sit, nicely upright, right inside the loom for threading and sleying.  It’s rather fantastic that way.


Each thread gets its own heddle — so this means that every single thread is threaded through its very own eye.  In this case, we’re talking about 547 threads (16 threads per inch for the cloth, 24 threads per inch for the rails) and several hours of work.



Threaded Peacock


Knotted in bundles on the other side to prevent ensuing tragedy like cats or dogs or small children pulling them back out of the heddles:


(I don’t have cats or dogs or small children at this point, so this must be just to prevent myself from doing something stupid).

Next up: sleying the reed!

Jul 29 2014


Design Seeds is my new favourite place to look at colourways.

PalePinks Pale Pinks from Design Seeds

Poppies from Design Seeds

Aged Tones from Design Seeds

Door Hues from Design Seeds

Feathered Hues from Design Seeds

Dusk Bloom from Design Seeds