Feb 28 2016

Color Presentation

I presented “A Color Vocabulary” yesterday at the Cross Border Weavers in Colville yesterday.

FirstColorWheel

The first half are the slides, the second half is the slides again, with my notes.

Click Here to View A Colour Vocabulary.


Dec 5 2015

Figure My Figure

I went to the Figure my Figure meeting for the Guild’s 2016 Yardage Challenge — how to figure out how much you need to weave for the pattern you’ve chosen.   These are my notes.

First, you’ve got to pick a pattern.  The upside to a pattern like this one is that it has many pieces — many pieces tends to mean that each piece is not super-wide, and that means that you can weave your cloth on a smaller (narrower) loom.  Most patterns have the yardage labeled for 45″ or 60″ cloth — and if your loom’s that wide, bully for you, but if it’s not . . . well . . .

ChooseAPatternNext up, take all the pieces out.   What you’re looking for is to find the largest one that is the widest across:

MeasureLargestPatternPieceFocusMeasure it at the widest point.   This, plus the selvage, plus shrinkage, is your minimum width.

TransferPatternPiecesToTracingPaperOur intrepid weaver’s guild president, Sarah Laudenbach, a long time seamstress, suggests tracing all your pattern pieces on to tracing paper, and using the tracing paper pattern for your garment, keeping the original for reuse.  If you use (or cut down your) tracing paper to the maximum width of your cloth on the loom (minus the selvage, minus shrinkage), you can’t go too wrong.

LayOutPatternPiecesRemember, you have to line up the pieces with the grain.  Check the arrows, and get everything going in the right direction.  When you get everything traced, and before you start cutting the tracing paper, measure the length of the tracing paper.  This, plus shrinkage, is the minimum length you need to weave for your pattern.  Weave more.

UseMeasuringTapeToGetStraightA trick for lining up the pattern with the cloth: measure from the grain line to the edge of the cloth in several places, so you know that you’re straight with the grain of the cloth.

LineUpPatternWithArrowsIf you are using cloth with an obvious pattern/stripe/grid, you’re going to need more cloth, because you’re going to use the little dart-arrows in the pattern to line up with the lines in the cloth.  You may need substantially more cloth to do this, if you have a long repeat.

DetailofDrawingClothPatternonPatternBefore you cut your cloth, it’s a good idea to trace the pattern of the cloth onto your pattern piece, to make sure the cloth pattern falls in the right place.

DrawItOnCompletelySarah suggests drawing it in on the whole thing.

I don’t know about you, but I’m still not feeling super-sure about this whole thing . . . weaving yardage, no problem — cutting my cloth . . . . eek.


Nov 4 2015

Silk Scarf

SilkScarfWhole

Can I tell you just how terribly delighted with how this scarf turned out?  It’s 60/2 silk, sett at 60 epi, handdyed lilac warp, creamy natural silk weft, with silk thread embroidery.

SilkScarfLogoDetailI’m particularly pleased with this addition.  I knew that one of my normal angryspinner.com tags would be entirely too heavy for this piece, and I was wracking my brain trying to figure out what to do — of course — more embroidery!  I think it’s pretty subtle.

SilkScarfFringeSetUpBut what I really want to talk about is this ^  — the work.  There’s a number of different ways folks get their fringe to line up.  I started with pinning the hems down with these beautiful, thin, glasshead pins.  I used a ruler to hold the fabric in tension and straight while I pinned into a cotton towel-covered foam block.

I decided how long to make the fringe, and placed a second ruler along there.

SilkScarfFringeLoopI started each knot off the pin.

SilkScarfFringeLassoLasso it over a pin, then place the pin.

SilkScarfFringeTightenPull gently to tighten.SilkScarfFringeKnotThe shaft of the pin puts the knot in just the right spot.

SilkScarfFringeDoneFinished pinning.  I then use a rotary cutter and a quilting square to cut the ends (not shown — I didn’t have quite enough hands to do the work and photograph it).

SilkScarfEnd2Finished fringe.

SilkScarfEnd

 

 

 

 

 

 


Aug 4 2015

Where I’ve Been Hiding

I know I haven’t been posting about what I’ve been weaving . . . I couldn’t. But I’ve been working deep in the background of this project — weaving things to help the teams make decisions on what to bring into production: Project Jacquard


Jul 30 2014

Peacock Baby Wrap Complete!

I wash, dry, and steam press my wraps before they go out. Before you send a piece of cloth this big through the washer to finish it, it’s best to baste it along the rails. I’ve determined that basting by hand with a high-contrast thread is the best way to do this:

BastedPeacock

Steam pressed, hand-hemmed, and ready to go:
PeacockPressed

On my in-house model:
WrappedAround

In the woods:
PeacockInTheWoods

In the sun:
PeacockInTheSun

The Peacock wrap meets its baby:
PeacockBabe

Mama and baby, all wrapped up and ready to go!
PeacockMamaAndBaby

I’m so glad you liked it!


Jul 29 2014

Peacock Baby Wrap Cloth

After the loom is threaded, the threads must be brought through the reed in the beater. In this case, most of the threads are brought through in pairs, for 16epi, except the ones on the selvedges, which are, for one inch, sett at 24epi.

KnottedOn

The ends are then bundled and tied on to the cloth beam, then tensioned to make sure that they all have an even tension, allowing for perfect weaving. Then, scrap yarn is used to spread the bundles back out to make nice cloth. Here, I’ve used a sage yarn in the weft.

TiedOn

I suspected it would be pretty, but the real weft, black, is spectacular.  (Click on individual photos to enlarge).

FirstPeacockYard

The first yard!


Jul 29 2014

Peacock Custom Baby Wrap Threading

Finally!  All the warp threads are wound, and placed in the raddle, which allows them to be spaced  on the warp beam for back-to-front threading and sleying.  Back-to-front is really the only way to thread this particular loom, because the Louet Spring allows you to remove the beast beam *and* the beater, and to sit, nicely upright, right inside the loom for threading and sleying.  It’s rather fantastic that way.

InTheRaddle

Each thread gets its own heddle — so this means that every single thread is threaded through its very own eye.  In this case, we’re talking about 547 threads (16 threads per inch for the cloth, 24 threads per inch for the rails) and several hours of work.

ThreadedPeackockStraightOn

 

Threaded Peacock

 

Knotted in bundles on the other side to prevent ensuing tragedy like cats or dogs or small children pulling them back out of the heddles:

PeacockKnots

(I don’t have cats or dogs or small children at this point, so this must be just to prevent myself from doing something stupid).

Next up: sleying the reed!


Jul 29 2014

Colourways

Design Seeds is my new favourite place to look at colourways.

PalePinks Pale Pinks from Design Seeds

Poppies
Poppies from Design Seeds

AgedTones
Aged Tones from Design Seeds

DoorHues
Door Hues from Design Seeds

FeatheredHues
Feathered Hues from Design Seeds

DuskBloom
Dusk Bloom from Design Seeds


Jul 27 2014

Peacock Baby Wrap

To recap: my client had this inspirational photo.

PeacockInspirationPhoto

Using the Fibonacci Sequence for striping and colour changes,

FibonacciSequenceWIF

I’ve been winding the warp for the Peacock Baby Wrap:

OnTheWarpingBoard

Here’s the warping board straight on:

WarpingBoardStraightOn

To conserve space in my studio (which is also my bedroom), I installed the warping board over the light switches.  (This actually makes them easier to find in the dark).   The thing behind the warping board is a child’s counting toy from Ikea that used to belong to Farmertot.  It’s got 100 beads in sets of 10, and it perfect to help keep track of the number of threads as I’m winding.

There’s a sticky note above the warping board to the left.  Here’s a detail of it:

ColourCheckStickyNoteThis is the number of each thread of each colour (Brown, Green, Teal, Blue, Purple).

If it’s not evident on the sticky note, there is more green and blue in the sequencing, because they are two of the three colours that are striped into and back out from.  (The teal, in the middle, is brighter, and I needed to reduce the number of threads to fit the width of the cloth, so it has fewer threads, but because its value is lighter than the other colours, I think it was the perfect place for a reduction.

PeacockYarn


Jul 18 2014

Baby Wrap

FibonacciSequenceWIFI have a new client who wants a baby wrap (looks like I’d better get the one on the loom back off!) Photo on 7-14-14 at 9.42 PMThis one is two greens in the warp in a Fibonacci sequence . . . it’s for a friend who is a geeky geek. Here it is, ready to be cut off the loom (ooh! look at all that cloth!): BabyWrapCloth My new client has this inspiration photo: PeacockInspirationPhotoAnd likes this kind of colour blending: WrapColourProgression It’s going to be so pretty! Some colour progression ideas (please ignore the colours used): Photo on 7-20-14 at 10.23 AM #2A (Fibonacci Sequence) and B (Scattered Sequence) Photo on 7-20-14 at 11.30 AM #2A (Fibonacci Sequence) and C (Plus One, Minus One Sequence) Photo on 7-20-14 at 11.32 AMC (Plus One, Minus One Sequence) and B (Scattered Sequence)

FibonacciSequenceWIF

WIF of partial Fibonacci Sequence